So I just completed a short jaunt on the Upper Bow River from Ghost Dam to Cochrane as part of my South Dakota Kayak Challenge training. Its a simple stretch of river the consists of a small class II rapid, a little step but some gorgeous turquoise water, and this time, over feet of snow...
This weekend will mark the 2 month countdown to the Second Annual South Dakota Kayak Challenge. A challenge primarily and a race secondary, that will see about 100 racers line the shore of Riverside Park in Yankton SD and with the sound of a gun, start their journey along a 75 mile (120km) section of the mighty and historic Missouri River, crossing into three states and finally finishing in Sioux City Iowa. As such, I have dedicated this entry to the challenge in an attempt to answer many questions for people that I have talked to that are interested in taking part in this great event.
The first leg between Riverside Park and Myron grove is a 17.5 mile (28km) downstream stretch of river that is channeled by numerous large islands and many more smaller islands, however, the flow is relatively unimpeded and the water deep. Last year there were a few sandbars along this route, but nothing major. The only real concern that I would say there is in this leg is a branch in the river after about 5 miles (8km), a smaller branch will flow north while a second brach flows south. I advise all would be paddlers to take the southern branch as its the more direct route and the northern route will lead you through what appeared to be a narrow, shallow channel that has its fair share of small islands you'd have to negotiate around before rejoining the main channel - it also adds about 0.6mi (1km) to your overall distance. I didn't hear about anyone taking the northern route last year - probably because you can still follow the crowd of paddlers, but it wouldn't be hard for a person to take it.
other. Of those boats, Tyler and I were the only boat to take the south channel. In retrospect, I would still recommend paddlers to take the southern channel. From accounts from volunteers and other racers, the northern channel is more channelized as it is divided even further by smaller islands. When the two channels merged, we had actually made time and distance on a few boats that left Myron Grove before us and even passed one or two. About 0.8miles (1.3km) the Missouri River will start to have fun with you - the river flows around two islands creating 3 channels and water levels drop. Last year the southern channel had many downed trees and some sandbars that were visible. We opted for the middle channel which for the most part was decent, however we pulled too close to the first island and quickly found ourselves bottoming out - coming to a complete stop in the middle of the Missouri River. As we quickly found out, the middle channel has a large barely submerged sandbar that sticks out about a quarter of a mile from the north shore of the island. In retrospect, we should have hugged closer to the southern shore of the second island as I believe the water was deeper. After these islands the river takes a sharp turn to the south where these sandbars are pretty much part of the scenery for the last 5 miles (8km) before Mulberry Bend. It is also around this time the headwind wind really started to pick up (20-30mph, 30-50kph). 
rong channelized current along this section, one that is not hard to miss and if you can ride it, can propel you through the bend in quite a short amount of time - I do also remember som very large boils that threaten to derail your run if you happen to slip out of this current. Just over 3 miles (5km) after Mulberry Bend, the river will fork into three channels. I remember the south channel being filled with shallows and sandbars, the same with the middle channel, however, if you stay river left in the middle channel you should miss the shallows and the sandbars. From the sounds of it, the northern channel is completely clear of sandbars and might be worth attempting this route as the length difference is less than 0.2mi (0.3km) and might mitigate the decrease in speed caused by the sandbars and shallows. Immediately after the shallows two large sandbars are present and highly viible in the middle of the river - avoid them - though if you need a break, I did see one boat pulling over on them. The river channel will then squeeze past a peninsula before flowing around a small treed island - I'd again recommend river right around this island until the Bolton checkpoint.
are rock structed that are built out into the river perpendicular to flow and they force water away from the shore, narrowing the river and creating quick channelized currents as water flows around them. Be warned, they also produce extremely large boils behind the structure, but behind them the water is calm and is a good place to rest if you need to. Be careful about not hitting one though as the force of the watter hitting it can pin and/or capsize a boat - this is more important at night or in low visibilty conditions, normally they are easy to avoid. I have heard stories of this happening (not in the SDKC though). If you are a confident paddler these currents can really be beneficial. The first set of wingdykes will last for about 0.8 miles (1.3km) - enough to let you know if you want to use them. By staying river right you will avoide major channelization and shallower water on the opposite bank as the river turns southwards towards Rosenbaum. The rest of the leg except for the 2.3 miles (3.8km) before Rosenbaum is fairly straight forward paddling with no obstacles. Near the end of this leg wingdykes will again appear, this time on the left shore before stopping and picking up on the right shore. Good paddlers in good conditions iwll be able to skirt across the river and use these to their benefit, at the same time, this is were recreational motor boat traffic will wreak havoc the most - and it will only get worse.
s and around islands and sandbars. From this point on, wing dykes will line the shores of the river (they will be on the outside of every major bend), so confident paddlers will find this helps a lot if they can ride the current. If conditions exist it could be worth skirting the river and riding the wingdykes, I know several paddlers did this. However, the recreational boaters might make this almost impossible. Last year the biggest complaint (after the headwinds) were the boaters throwing huge wakes at the racers - many not really caring and several doing it on purpose. Be very careful around the boaters you can see them, they may not be able to see you. About 11.5 miles (28.5km) after leaving Rosenbaum you will be able to see some extremely large mansions on the left bank, at this point you will probably be riding the wingdykes on that side as well (or avoiding them like the plague) and possibly flipping off some motor boaters, but take pleasure in seeing these, you're less than 5 miles (8km) from the finish and on the second last set of wingdykes. A mere 3 miles (5km) futher you will come to the confluence of the Missouri River and Sioux River on the left shore, but at this point you will probably be fixated on the Sioux City Bridge (Veteran's Bridge). From here make sure you get to the left shore and follow it to Bev's, turn sharply into the marina and bask in the knowledge that you just finished the South Dakota Kayak Challenge.When most people hear "75 miles (120km)" and "30 hours","paddling" in the same sentence, it usually summons visions of herculean trapezius muscles and biceps or just an impossible combination - this is not the case. This is not an impossible task, 75 miles (121km) in 30 hours is doable if you put your mind to it and practice, all you have to do is believe in yourself and know what you want. There are three kinds of people that will enter this race in my opinion, (1) ones that want to compete to win, (2) those that want to challenge themselves and finish, (3) those that want to just paddle regardless of the outcome. Its easy to know which one you fall into, just believe in yourself and train for that division.
For those people coming this year, the biggest thing that I can pass on is don't let the wind, recreational traffic or other hardships get you down. If you really want to finish but are finding the wind and traffic too much and are thinking of pulling out, get to the shore or into one of the checkpoints. Get ot of your boat and take a breather and a break and talk to other paddlers, they're likely having the same experience as you. A brief timeout or conversation can do wonders and get your mind and body back into the game. If you do decide to pull-out before the finish, don't be hard on yourself, just do it safely. There is always another year and lessons to be learned from past experiences, after all, no competitor in the race would hold it against you or think you lesser or doing so. Ultimately this was set up to be a challenge which by definition is something that summons special skill and strength (both physical and mental) to complete.
If you have competed in the SDKC or plan too, feel free to leave comments or questions below.
Eddie Bauer states that their First Ascent Summit Mitt is "a choice for high-altitude climbers venturing into inhospitable places, this mitt ensures that your digits stay toasty warm even in severe weather." I was about to put that to the test.
table. So I went out and bought a pair of gloves that have a pocket for hand warmers that fit over the back of your hand. Was this to be my saving glove? I decided to put it to the test. In late November a group of friends and outdoor enthusiasts decided to hike to the summit of Paget Peak - as we pulled into the trailhead parking lot just outside Trail BC, the thermometer on my car read -36C and the summit was still 900m above where we were standing, and it was barren - meaning no trees to act as a windstop. As we gained elevation and broke free of the trees the temperature started its decline fairly quickly, finally coming to a rest at -43C on the summit. The sheer cold of the day was only offset buy the spectacular brillance of a clear windless summit, but the gloves with their liners and handwarmers were not doing the job. I found my hands clenched inside the palm of the gloves almost the entire trip. I had even somehow developed a technique of holding my ice axe with my hands clenched. Totally not safe but it gave my finger some warmth. What I took away from that trip (minus moderate frostbite on my nose) was that gloves just didn't cut the cold and that I was going to buy a pair of gloves, not just any gloves...a good warm pair of gloves, ones that did the job.
even tested out several makes and styles. I had my eye on the Black Diamond Mercury Mitt when I cam across the First Ascent Summit Mitts while shopping for some base layers at my local Eddie Bauer (they're base layers are also top notch). The first thing that stood out was the colour. One thing I have been moving more towards in my outdoor wardrobe is brighter colours, these can prove invaluable in times of distress. After the colour the next thing I looked at was the insulation - and this is where I fell in love. The Summit Mitt boasts a dual-layer primaloft shell with a removable 550-fill goose down liner, both lined with a wool-poly blend. Talk about the best of both worlds. Primaloft has one of the highest warmth-to-weight ratios of any current synthetic insulation, it also retains more of its thermal capabilities when wet - which is why I think Eddie Bauer/First Ascent hit a home run using it on the outside and having the down in the liner. The Summit Mitts also contain a durable leather palm for extra grip and abrasion resistance. So after waiting for the Eddie Bauer Anniversary sale, I purchased the mitts and promptly put them to the test. The mitts sell for $149 CAD.
wrist straps so when you pull the liners out of the shell, you are stil wearing a 550-fill down glove and the shell cannot blow away. The fact that you can remove the inner lining and separate the gloves is an added benefit - and as the liner gloves are less bulky, but still wind-resistent, warm and they give you more dexterity to tinker with small things like zippers on backpack and nozzles on stoves. They even have leather added to the underside of them for added durability and grip. When its time to put the shell back on, the liner just slips easily inside and velcroes securely into place. CONS
OVERALL RANKING: 5 / 5
Each year, the combination of short cold winter days, snow and increasing avalanche conditions drive outdoor mountain enthusiasts to smaller and less complex mountains. Many people simply stop climbing and scramblign mountains, instead opting to climb aboard a chairlift that guides them to the summit where they then strap two waxed 2x4's of wood and slide down the slopes. For those, however; that continue to walk and climb up the mountains, the longer days in March are a warm welcome in the midst of cold temperatures
ly steep from the roadside, the trail flattens for a distance, this is a nice reprieve considering the trail unbeknownst to first-timers, is about to get steeper. In winter I would recommended micro-spikes or crampons as many people were using the trail to descend down on their bottoms - compacting and smoothing the snow making the steep sections quite slippery for those ascending (I had crampons, just opted not to take the time to put them on). As the trail winds its way through the forest, you can lose sight of the summit, but by looking pwqrds you can see the tree crowns stopping, this gives hope that the summit is near. After the final cluster of switchbacks the trail emerges from the trees to an open alpine prairie and a wide gentle approach to the summit begins. This final approach takes about 10-15 minutes in winter.
ou reach the actual summit. The summit cairn consists of a giant pile of rocks with a 10ft branch sticking out the middle. From the summit you get a sweeping view of the surrounding mountains and if you look at the sumit of Moose Mountain, you can see the old fire tower on the summit.
Boy, its taken a long time to write this. Between training for the South Dakota Kayak Challenge and planning/researching a Mt. Kilimanjaro/Mt. Meru expedition I really haven't had much time to do this. 
of about 400m, but a horizontal distance of about 17km round trip. We started out on the trail at about noon. Before long the parking lot was well behind us and we were hiking our way through the Great Dividing Range. The first thing that I noticed was still patches of snow - this wa
s afterall in December, the middle of the southern hemisphere's summer. Even at an elevation of about 2000m (7000ft), I had expected the snow to have sublimated away at the very least under the power of the Australian sun. Not that I was complaining, I am actually happy there was snow. The next thing I immediately noticed, was the lack of large dominating craggy spires and peaks. It was a very nice change from the peaks of Alberta, it provided a very exotic feel, especially with the gum trees. I kept an eye in the valley for the chance to see a wallaby, kangaroo or emu, but alas, I believe the preceding cold weather had driven them to lower altitudes
sure of passing another Australian Icon - the Snowy River. This is the same river made famous by Banjo Patterson back in 1890 and then renewed its fame with a 1982 movie starring Kirk Douglas. The Snowy River has its origin a mere 4km from the the trail and is fed by melt water from the snows. After watching the tiny fish swim around, posing for a few photo ops and dipping my foot into the waters, we continued on our way to Seaman's Hut (a winter refuge for back country enthusiasts) at 2030m. The hut is also a stark reminder that eve
n a relatively small innocuous mountain can turn deadly. In 1928, W. Laurie Seaman and Evan Hayes died in a winter storm while. The Seaman family built the shelter for future park users to prevent another such tragedy. Sadly over the years, people have still fallen victim to avalanches and winter storms.
as the south-eastern slope of our intended destination - the summit was just blocked by the hill beside us. Sure enough, within a few minutes, the summit came into view - I can't say it was awe-inspiring or a take-your-breath away moment but it wasn't disappointing either. It was little more than a rounded knob with a few patches of snow, but breathtaking in its own right. What none of us really realised at that time, was that Kosciuszko was holding a present for us, only to be shown to those that summit.
before ending at the Survey Cairn that marked the highest point in Australia. In my opinion this is where the scenery changed from great to excellent (as with the vast majority of summits). Now higher than most of the surrounding peaks, the scale of the Great Dividing Range became apparent, until this point, we were hiking through a valley, slowly gaining elevation, our views limited by the mountains on either side of us. Now, free of the valle confines we were able to peer into the far distances. We were able to see the various walls of mountains undulating into the horizon, stopping only where they ran against the clouds of the sky.
